This is part of an ongoing series on wine-in-context, stemming from the belief that not only does every bottle have a story to tell, but every winery and knowledgeable wine merchant.
The eve before I left Italy this fall, I stopped into Estro Vino e Cucina in Venice to say goodbye to my friends Dario and Alberto Spezzamonte, the owners of this contemporary Venetian bistrot, wine bar and wine shop. Over a glass of sparkling garganega, I asked Dario, the sommelier brother, to select December’s wine-of-the-month; he accepted, we said ciao, gave our do’ bazi (“two kisses” in Venetian dialect; a typical greeting in Italy), and I left. Four days later, on November 12th, Venice suffered from an acqua alta just two inches shy of the record-setting flood in 1966, which reached six feet and four inches. The Spezzamonte brothers, as well as many other friends who have restaurants, shops, and wine bars in the city, had to face the aftermath of not only that day, but subsequent flooding.
My hats off to everyone in Venice because, in those days, my social media feed was full of uplifting images and messages: Venetians sending words of encouragement to each other or offering to lend a hand to help clear out the debris and damage the flood left behind. There is still lots of work to do, not to mention, a complete overhaul of the incompetent and corrupt local government, but…
Cheers to the humanity that arises in these sad occasions! And, cheers to a city that probably never should have existed in the first place, but somehow manages to survive—and even thrive—through the centuries. I can’t think of a better way to toast this delicate, magical place along with all of its inhabitants, than with a bollicine (bubbles) that has its own underdog tale: the enduring Durello!
December’s Wine of the Month:
Daniele Piccinin
"ARIONE"
Durello Metodo Classico Brut
2016
THE WINE: ‘ARIONE’ Durello Metodo Classico Brut 2016 | 20 €
Durella is a grape native to Monte Lessini, a mountainous area north of Verona in Italy’s Veneto region. The hand of cards this grape variety was dealt was not great: It has a tough skin. It’s acidic. It easily oxidizes. But, that’s just what Dario from Estro loved about this wine: notwithstanding these odds, Durella can make elegant wines like this Durello Metodo Classico (FYI: the grape is called Durella and the wines are often called Durello.) The acidity actually makes it a perfect contender for sparkling wine, which revels in high acidity. And, by no means is this the only sparkling Durello you will find in the region: they are just starting to really be discovered outside of the Veneto.
Expect flavors of green apple, lemon, minerals and brioche. The Spezzamonte Brothers like to pair this with two of their dishes: Baccalà (a Venetian staple) and Shrimp Carpaccio. See the images below. Can you tell Estro is a Michelin-selected restaurant?
Baccala Trio from Estro Vino e Cucina, Venice.
Shrimp Carpaccio from Estro Vino e Cucina, Venice.
THE WINERY: Daniele Piccinin
Daniele Piccinin came into wine-making in a round-about way: he first got his degree in hotel hospitality, then he opened a restaurant with a friend, then he became a sommelier, and only at this point did Daniele decide to bring his experiences together and become a winemaker. He abides by a light-handed approach, only minimally intervening when needed, preferring to let the fruit and terroir speak for themselves.
His nine acres of vineyards are located on the foothills of Lessinia in the Alpone Valley. Half of the valley has soil of volcanic origin, the other half a calcareous clay, which is where Daniele has his Durella planted. We owe producers like him, who believe in little-known varieties, for the mind-blowing diversity of grape varieties that still exist in Italy today.
THE WINE MERCHANT: Estro Vino e Cucina | Venice, Italy
Before Estro, the Fratelli (Brothers) Spezzamonte ran another restaurant in Venice with just seven tables and a kitchen most likely smaller than your broom closet—and it was amazing! They moved to their current space on the border between two of Venice’s neighborhoods, Dorsoduro and Santa Croce, to expand their vision, which now includes a fine-dining restaurant, a more casual wine bar and a wine shop (with 700+ labels) that takes up almost all the available wall space. Whether you want to have a nice meal out, a light bite in between sight-seeing, or a bottle to take back to your hotel room, Estro is a perfect stop. The wines featured at the restaurant adhere to Dario’s criteria: they have to be made with grapes from from organic vineyards, fermented with native yeasts, treated with only the minimal levels of permitted sulfur dioxide and are not chemically altered. Rest assured your wine will be paired perfectly with the cuisine and vice versa!
With that, I will leave you with just a little more foodie porn alla Estro.
ITALIAN WINE PODCAST ALERT!
If you speak Italian or are learning Italian and want to listen to a great podcast on wine, Dario Spezzamonte, aLong with two other young Venetian restaurant owners (ANDREA LORENZON OF CoVino and LORENZO BENELLI of Al Covo) have a podcast called “Guarda Mamma, Senza Solfiti!” - Look Mom, Without Sulfites. It’s hilarious. Here’s the link.
Past Wines of the Month
December 2018
A Heart-warming Red from the Dolomites
Castel Noarna “Mercuria” Rosso 2015 - IGT Dolomiti | Kingston Wine Co., Kingston, NY
January 2019
A Do-Good Bottle to Kick Off the New Year
February 2019
You’ll Cry It’s So Good
March 2019
Wonder Women of Wine
April 2019
Magma in Your Glass
May 2019
An Artist’s Barolo
June 2019
The Gallery of Wine Presents…
Clos Guirouilh, Jurançon Sec 2015 | Le Chai Galerie du Vin - Savannah, GA
July 2019
Coastal Flavor
Il Morellito, ‘Calaniuru’ Rosso Sicilia 2018 - Maine & Loire - Portland, Maine
August 2019
Summer Vacation in a Bottle
Cardedu ‘Praja’ Monica di Sardegna 2017 | Mr. B’s - Denver, Colorado
(Harvest Break)
November 2019
Mushroom Risotto’s Best Friend
Rovellotti ‘Ronco Al Maso’ Colline Novaresi Vespolina 2013 | European Vine Selections - Seattle, WA
